Plissé Please! Why the Cool, Crinkled Fabric Is More Appealing Than Ever

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Issey Miyake officially launched his Pleats Please line in Spring Summer 1994—a collection of plissé (or pleated) fabrics cut into every which way. 27 years later, the textile feels as fresh as ever. In fact, the lightweight, loose-fitting, wrinkle-proof fabric was used in a handful of spring collections, most notably in Versace’s sea-centric show in the form of bouncy tube dresses and elaborately printed tops. It also made more minimalist appearances at It brands like Dion Lee and Nanushka. The season showcased many interesting textures, creases, and crafty fabrics—plissé included—in a trend dubbed “Surface Interest” by Vogue Runway.

As many of us are looking to dress up again while keeping comfortable, what better time to consider an outfit that balances function and fashion? And what textiles does that better than micro pleats? “I love plissé because it is soft avant-garde. You are giving a look without sacrificing comfort”, says Vogue market editor Alexandra Gurvitch. “My personal favorite Pleats Please set is my vintage black plissé turtleneck; with pointed shoulders and a matching ankle-length skirt, it makes me feel like a comfortable fashion witch.”

Though, if spring’s expressive prints and stand-out colors are more your mood, there’s a plissé style for that—from Cult Gaia’s voluminous peachy satin top to Julia Heuer’s wavy statement prints, which use the Japanese shibori technique to pleat. These pieces have the post-pandemic benefit of being stretchy, sleek, and even sexy all at the same time—pending on the silhouette like, say, Versace’s mini dress or Khaite’s bralette top. Though, there are also pieces for everyday wear, such as a swingy short set from Rebecca Taylor or Issey Miyake’s sleeveless top. Each brings luxurious leisurewear to a whole new level.

Shop spring’s best plissé pieces below.

Cult Gaia Mala cropped ruffled plisse satin top

$400

NET-A-PORTER

Cult Gaia Kersti plisse satin wide-leg pants

$300

NET-A-PORTER

Rebecca Taylor sleeveless plissé tank

$145

REBECCA TAYLOR

Rebecca Taylor plissé pleat short

$165

REBECCA TAYLOR

Pleats Please Issey Miyake pink sleeveless turtleneck

$225

SSENSE

Pleats Please Issey Miyake pink skirt

$320

SSENSE

Versace Trésor de la Mer print top

$1,125

VERSACE

Versace ruffled plissé satin long dress

$1,250

LUISAVIAROMA

Club Monaco micropleat top

$155$69
CLUB MONACO

Club Monaco micropleat skirt

$170$79
CLUB MONACO

Khaite Indira pleated bralette

$580

NET-A-PORTER

Khaite Sylvia frayed pleated midi-skirt

$780

NET-A-PORTER

Julia Heuer Rana blouse

$560

SSENSE

Julia Heuer Douglas pleated print trousers

$565

NORDSTROM

Nanushka Idris twisted crinkle blouse

$495

BERGDORF GOODMAN

Nanushka Tabbie wide-leg pants

$565

BERGDORF GOODMAN

Dion Lee open back plissé halterneck top

$390

NET-A-PORTER

Dion Lee tie detailed plissé maxi skirt

$690

NET-A-PORTER

Pleats Please Issey Miyake playing print sleeveless top

$290

NORDSTROM

Pleats Please Issey Miyake basics pleated ankle pants

$320

NORDSTROM

Versace Trésor de la Mer plissé satin minidress

$1,075

NORDSTROM