Gucci-das? adiucci? Whatever you want to call it, Alessandro went there
What’s a fashion season without a wild new collab these days? Last year saw designers join forces in a totally unprecedented way – from Donatella and Kim Jones’ Fendace collection, to Balenciaga and Gucci’s hack (and back again), the hottest trend of the whole year was the big brand partnership, with mash-up logos and mad hybrids dominating the TL for months on end.
Now, as part of a much rumoured project, Gucci has finally confirmed an upcoming collaboration with adidas, which it launched on the runway at its Milan Fashion Week Exquisite show. But then, that’s not really surprising, because if anyone loves a link-up, it’s Mr. Alessandro Michele.
At a show where the audience sat in front of warped, funhouse-style mirrors, and everyone lost their shit as Rihanna and baby-daddy A$AP Rocky strolled to their seats (Ri in a low-slung pair of jeans, fluffy jacket, and jewelled headpiece, Rocky inexplicably carrying a big Gucci suitcase, in case you were wondering), Michele sent a collection that was Gucci through and through down the catwalk.
Tailoring was a big vibe this season, as he honed in on masculine cuts and finishes for boys and girls for AW22, turning out covetable velvet, corduroy, and leather suits, some splattered with sequins or otherwise dotted with glittering crystals. Pearly Kings and punks also stalked the runway, studded biker jackets thrown around their shoulders, studded dog collars around their necks, and berets perched on their heads, while racy lace lingerie peeped out from underneath huge shaggy jackets that rendered the models mini.
But about that adidas collection. Don’t think for a minute that this was a case of Michele slapping the Gucci name on a pair of Gazelles and calling it a day, as is sometimes (okay fine, often) the case when it comes to a collab. Instead, the German sportswear behemoth’s instantly recognisable insignia had well and truly infected the whole thing. Its signature Three-Stripes ran the length of tailored trouser legs and sleeves, while its trefoil had been blown up and turned into a repeating pattern seen across a series of pieces, or otherwise stamped on chest pockets, bags, and brilliantly mad hats in the form of double-peaked caps and sporty bonnets. And those Gazelles really did make an appearance, in new colourways, with new fabrications, and that all-important dual logo detailing.
The pièce de résistance, however, was the show’s final look. Consisting of a red, white, and black bodysuit complete with train and veil, the Gucci bride’s look was totally deal for when you’ve got your wedding at six but a triathlon at nine.