The designer’s AW21 collection was very much ‘hiking’ for people who have never set foot outside of a capital city
After a week of (mostly) digital fashion shows in Paris, Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner made their IRL runway return yesterday for Jacquemus’ first outing in a year, La Montagne. 108 maskless guests looked on as the models, bedecked in skimpy, hiking(ish) gear, trundled over a 60cm ramp – an abstract impression of the breezy French mountains that inspired the collection.
Slender dresses, water-proof bralettes, and sleeping bag skirts were bunched and clipped as if they were stowaway camping equipment. Technical, loose-cut trousers unzipped at the knee, while clipped pulley systems dangled pockets from blazers, ruched dresses up the thigh, and swung from skintight, tailored two pieces. Hot magenta, tangerine, baby blue – this was outdoors for people who have never set foot outside of a capital city.
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As always, the best of the collection came in Jacquemus’ sexy knitwear – sheathlike dresses with sinuous criss-cross straps, scant, ribbed bra tops (essentially two squares of fabric to cover your nipples) as worn by both men and women, and angular, cut-out singlets, which sat beneath roomy, cropped blazers. The infamous Chiquito mini-bag was strapped across the body like a carabiner, while Jacquemus’ latest accessory, the Le Sac Ciuciu bag – a rectangular clutch with a hefty chain strap, dangled from Kendall’s arm.
If we know anything by now, it’s that Jacquemus knows how to make a viral item and this collection was a superspreader – from sheepskin mules to fuzzy, barely-there crop tops. And, for the first time, Jacquemus is operating on a see-now-buy-now basis, meaning all the looks from the show are already available for purchase online. Check out what’s in store from the collection in the gallery above.